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Silver Flake News
Gold Jewelry Facts
http://www.seawear.com/jewelry/goldfacts.html
"Some people write or call asking questions about gold
or what they are purchasing. About half the population out
there knows all about jewelry. The women! The other half,
(men!) don't know as much. We know the important stuff. Like
"buy it for the other half"! Whether you buy it
here or somewhere else, you need to know what you are buying.
It is an investment. The scary thing is, you don't know what
you don't know, until you learn it... " - Charlie
Weight
Precious metals are sold by weight. The final price is determined
by the base price of gold today in London; finishing cost
per piece by weight; shipping, handling and insurance by weight.
1 Troy Ounce = 31.1033 Grams (gms)
1 Troy Ounce = 20 Pennyweight (dwt)
.9114 Troy Ounce = 1 Ounce Avoirdupois
1.5552 Grams = 1 Pennyweight
28.3495 Grams = 1 Ounce Avoirdupois
Gold Standards of actual gold content and the European symbol
8kt - 33.48% gold
10kt - 41.81% gold - Euro 420
14kt - 58.48% - Euro 580
18kt - 75.15% - Euro 750
19kt - 79.31%
22kt Coin - 90% - Euro 900
22kt - 92% - Euro 920
24kt - 100% - Euro 999.9
Silver
Fine Silver - 99.9% silver
Sterling Silver - 92.5% silver (usually the other 7.5% is
copper)
· Specific Gravity properties of metal
24kt yellow gold - 19.32
18kt yellow gold - 15.58
14kt yellow gold - 13.07
10kt yellow gold - 10.49
Fine Silver - 10.49
Sterling Silver - 10.36
What is gold fill, layering and plating?
Gold fill is made up of 1/20th 14kt gold or 5% x .5858 (14kt
gold content) to equal 3% actual gold in a gold filled piece.
A layer of 14kt gold is put over brass by heat and pressure
bonding. Gold filled has an actual layer of gold, while gold
plated merely has a microscopic film. Gold vermeil by FTC
standards has a 100 millionths of an inch layer of 14kt gold
over sterling silver.
How is gold made in other colors?
With the introduction of various metals to pure gold, the
color can be altered. Believe it or not, gold can be yellow,
white, rose, purple, green or blue! Here are the most common
formulas of how they make yellow, white and rose colored gold.
18kt yellow gold - 75% gold + 12.5% silver + 12.5% copper
14kt yellow gold - 58% gold + 25% silver + 17% copper
18kt white gold - 75% gold + 5% copper + 15% nickel + 5% zinc
14kt white gold - 58% gold + 20% copper + 14.5% nickel + 7.5%
zinc
18kt rose gold - 75% gold + 5% silver + 20% copper
14kt rose gold - 58% gold + 10% silver + 32% copper
Diamonds and Cubic Zirconia (CZ)
CZs are a very good manmade version of the natural stone,
diamond. They look great in 14kt or 18kt settings. Obviously,
the CZ is much heavier. Coloring is similar and the hardness
is not far apart.
Diamond vs CZ vs Moissanite
Mohs Hardness
D - 10
CZ - 8.5
M - 9.25
Refractive Index (brilliance)
D - 2.417
CZ - 2.15
M - 2.65
Specific Gravity
D - 3.515
CZ - 5.8
M - 3.21
Dispersion (fire)
D - .044
M - .104
Luster
D - 17.2%
M - 20.4%
Moissanite
This is the one that was featured on 60 Minutes & 20-20
and fooled almost every jeweler tested. Without special testing
equipment, distinguishing it from a natural diamond, is very
difficult if not impossible. Green color is soon to be released
and available.
Triplet
Opals are frequently created as triplets, meaning the stone
is assembled from three pieces. Opal triplets are composed
of a rock quartz layer over genuine opal joined to a base.
Triplets resist marring, and the quartz acts to play up the
brilliance of the genuine stone.
Birthstones
January - Garnet
February - Amethyst
March - Aquamarine
April - Diamond
May - Emerald
June - Alexandrite or Pearl
July - Ruby
August - Peridot
September - Blue Sapphire
October - Tourmaline (pink)
November - Citrine or Topaz (golden)
December - Zircon or Tourmaline (blue)
RINGS Please read if you are considering a ring purchase
Most people are very specific about their ring and know exactly
what they want. This is not by luck, it is research! For those
of you who do not know, this is for you.
No matter what you think, you do not know your ring size.
A standard ring sizer is 3mm wide. A plastic sizer will be
different than a calibrated steel sizer. A wide ring sizer
is only 5mm wide. Guys, if someone tells you that you wear
a size six, please be sure they are not looking at a 9.0 upside
down. It is NOT funny two days before the wedding.
A typical wedding band may be 1mm thick and 3-5mm wide. If
you are looking for a massive heavy style ring, you are looking
at 3-4mm thick and 8-12mm wide. Don't be surprised that the
price is 3-4 times that of an average band.
I know your college ring is a 12 and you've always worn a
12 and you want a 12. Are you going to continue to wear your
college ring? It's on your right hand correct? You wedding
ring is going on your left hand? More than likely you left
hand is 1/2 size smaller unless you are a lefty. Than it's
most likely a half size larger. Thank me now or thank me after
the wedding, go get your ring size taken!
Next, if you are getting a ring wider than 4-5mm it is a good
idea to go and buy an inexpensive ring in the same size and
the same width to see how you like it. Not everyone can wear
an 8mm wide ring. Try on a standard flat fit and a comfort
fit and see which you prefer. I know $100 more is a lot of
money. Thank me now or thank me in 15 years. I'm not trying
to sell you up. If you are in law enforcement there are other
issues that we have discussed privately. If you are working
around water a lot (surf, sail, fish, boat, pilot, ATF, Customs)
you may want the ring snug so it does not come off easily.
We do have a surfer that has replaced his band four times
in three years and refuses to get it one half size smaller.
All I can say is, THANK YOU!
Not all rings can be resized so it is critical to be accurate
in your sizing. Rings made for you are NOT RETURNABLE. If
you ordered a 7.0 and after the honeymoon you are an 8.0 the
ring is NOT RETURNABLE. If you change your mind and decide
you do not like the ring anymore it is NOT RETURNABLE. I know
this seems redundant, but it is actually for your credit card
company to see our ring policy. If you are less than 150%
sure that you want a ring we are offering for sale, merely
ask us to send you a sample to evaluate prior to ordering
yours. If you are ordering a ladies ring for a guy, even though
we size it to 11 or 13 it is going to look like a ladies ring
on a guy. The ladies rings are the ones that go 4.5 to 8 and
the guys are the ones that go 8.5 to 12.
If you are getting rings with emeralds, how much do you know
about emeralds? They are fragile. They will NOT last a lifetime.
Expect to loose a small emerald every few years out of your
ring. If you don't, great! If you do, the emerald and workmanship
was not defective. Walk into the best jewelry store you can
find and ask if you buy an emerald how long the guarantee
is on it. Exactly! Once you walk out the door the guarantee
is over. It is guaranteed to be what it is at the time of
purchase. How long it lasts depends entirely upon how you
treat it and your lifestyle.
ENGAGEMENT RINGS
Guys, do this right and you can thank me now and she will
thank you the rest of your life! I know you want the perfect
ring and you want to surprise her. Involve her.
Did you hear me?
INVOLVE HER!
I know, I know, she will love the 1.0ct round diamond in the
twisted prong setting you saw. Did you know she has dreamed
of a princess cut diamond since she was 15 because her father
always told her she was a princess and to hold out for a prince?
Did you know she and her best friend or sister have been looking
at settings since they were seniors in high school? How many
bridal magazines and wedding magazines have YOU looked at?
How many do you think she has looked at ? Do you think she
will tell you what she wanted after you have proposed and
surprised her? She will tell you on your 20th anniversary
when you ask: "what can I get to be really special this
year"?
Involve her in the process before you are ready to buy. Know
what style of stone she likes, what color gold she likes.
Do you know if she has allergies? If she has any metal allergies
you do not want to buy her a white gold ring unless you are
certain it is nickel free. Some girls do not want to wear
yellow gold. Some want a small diamond, but you want to show
the world you are the man and get her a huge one. Be a man
and ask her what she'd like.
Just imagine you've been talking about a new SUV or pickup.
In your mind you are analyzing full time four wheel drive
or switchable. Lift kit or stock? Snorkel or carbon fiber
foam filter? Black on black or black on black! Hemi or twin
turbo diesel? Then, you come home and she has a surprise for
you in the driveway! A light blue two wheel drive imported
pick-up with a cap and four cylinder that was a deal! Smile
and say thank you! Hopefully you can twist the crankshaft
in 50-60,000 miles!
Involve her and find out what she wants. It's HER day and
you are her man. Show her! Relax and have fun with it. It
is about the two of you.
Why does gold or silver discolor fingers?
Some customers may think that faulty manufacturing or underkarating
might be the problem when a ring 'turns,' blackening or discoloring
the skin and clothing, or the jewelry itself. The most common
reason is metallic abrasion, caused by makeup on skin or clothing.
Cosmetics often contain compounds harder than the jewelry
itself, which wear or rub off very tiny particles. Very finely
divided metal always appears black rather than metallic, so
it looks like a jet-black dust. When this dust comes into
contact with absorbent surfaces such as skin or clothing,
it sticks, forming a black smudge. To prevent this, try switching
cosmetics. If this is not possible, remove rings and other
jewelry while applying them, and clean skin areas in contact
with jewelry with soap and water.
Another cause is actual corrosion of the metals. Gold itself
does not corrode, but its primary alloys of silver or copper
do so - forming very dark chemical compounds - under moist
or wet conditions. When a person perspires, fats and fatty
acids released can cause corrosion of 14-karat gold, especially
when exposed to warmth and air. This problem can be worse
in seacoast semitropical areas, where chlorides combine with
perspiration to form a corrosive element that discolors the
skin. Smog fumes gradually attack jewelry and are evident
as a tarnish that rubs off on the skin. Remove jewelry often
and sue an absorbent powder, free of abrasives, on skin that
comes into contact with jewelry. Remove all rings before using
soaps, cleaning compounds or detergents and clean your rings
frequently. As well as solving the problem, you'll be amazed
at how much better the rings look!
Switching to 18kt jewelry has only 25% alloy versus 42% in
14kt and that significantly reduces the problem. The use of
platinum should reduce it all together. (Stuller)
Why you should not wear your jewelry into the pool
or hot tub.
Swimming and warm weather just naturally go together. But
next time, be sure to remove your gold jewelry first. Most
pool water contains chlorine, which is a useful disinfectant.
However, even when highly diluted, chlorine can be harmful
to all kinds of karat gold jewelry... yellow, pink and especially
white gold. Studies have shown that even tiny amounts of diluted
chlorine in pools, resort spas, whirlpools and hot tubs can
erode the nickel alloy in white gold, and possibly cause prongs
to snap and mountings to break apart. Chlorine is present
in many ordinary household chemicals such as bleach, detergents,
soaps and cleaners. They can leave chlorine deposits that
could damage your gold rings. When using these products always
remove gold jewelry or wear rubber gloves. (Golden Triangle
News)
Gemstone Care
People often remark how beautiful a piece looks when they
receive it or leave the jewelry store, but over time, the
gemstones 'change' and become cloudy or dull. While your piece
of jewelry is in the jewelers care, he/she is caring for it.
That is why they spend so much time with you to be sure you
are satisfied and happy before you walk out the door. Once
you leave the premises, it is impossible to monitor your care
and wearing of the gemstone. If you have a few other people
examine it or 'clean' it before bringing it back to the original
jeweler, it may not even be the same stone...
Even though your gemstone is an inanimate object, think of
it as alive. It needs care and some need nourishment! The
first thing to stay away from is the people in the aisles
of the mall that want to clean your rings for free! Hold up
a cross or crossed index fingers to keep them and vampires
away! (Buffy wears a white gold Claddagh ring so she's ok!)
Keep your gemstones out of the steamers and acid washes!
Amber - clean with a soft damp cloth. Never use steam or ultrasonic
cleaning. Avoid alcohol, bleach and all harsh chemicals. Avoid
prolonged exposure to hot water. The safest and best way to
clean emerald jewelry is with lukewarm water, a very mild
soap and a soft brush. Be sure to rinse and dry thoroughly.
Store each piece separately so that other jewelry will not
scratch it.
Amethyst - if properly taken care of, will last indefinitely.
Amethyst should be protected from sharp blows and scratches
but is otherwise quite resistant to normal wear. It may be
cleaned with most any commercial jewelry cleaner or mild soap
and lukewarm water using a soft brush. Be sure to rinse and
dry thoroughly. Some amethyst may fade if exposed to sunlight
for long periods. For this reason, it is recommended you do
not wear it while sunbathing or using a tanning bed.
Aquamarine - should never be cleaned with a steam cleaner
or ultrasonic cleaning machine. It can be cleaned with most
commercial jewelry cleaners or mild soap, lukewarm water and
a soft brush. Rinse and dry thoroughly.
Citrine - the beautiful color in your citrine, if properly
taken care, will last indefinitely. Citrine should be protected
from sharp blows and scratches but is otherwise quite resistant
to normal wear. Citrine can be cleaned with most any commercial
jewelry cleaner or mild soap, lukewarm water using a soft
brush. Be sure to rinse and dry thoroughly. Some citrine may
fade if exposed to sunlight for long periods. For this reason,
it is recommended you do not wear it while sunbathing or using
a tanning bed.
Emerald - care should be excised when both wearing and cleaning
emerald jewelry. The internal features found in most emeralds
make them very susceptible to sharp blows and sudden temperature
changes. Never use an ultrasonic cleaner, steam, detergent
or commercial jewelry cleaners. The safest and best way to
clean emerald jewelry is with lukewarm water, a very mild
soap and a soft brush. Be sure to rinse and dry thoroughly.
When it appears to be a little dull, bring it to your jeweler
and ask him/her to oil it. Don't laugh...
Garnet - is both hard and durable. Garnet can be cleaned using
an ultrasonic cleaning machine, any commercial jewelry cleaner
or mild soap and lukewarm water using a soft brush.
Opal - should be protected from heat and strong light due
to their unusually high water content, or they can dry out.
Opals also draw moisture from the air and therefore should
not be stored for long periods of time in dehumidified environments
such as a bank vault. Never clean an opal using chemicals,
detergents, ultrasonic or steam cleaning machines. The safest
and best way to clean opals is with lukewarm water, a very
mild soap and a soft brush. Be sure to rinse and dry thoroughly.
Pearls - cultured pearls are softer than most gemstones but
durable enough for everyday wear. Because oils, soaps and
chemicals can damage the beautiful nacre, you should apply
cosmetics, perfumes and hair spray before putting on your
pearls. Wipe your pearls with a dry, soft cloth after each
wearing. Never clean cultured pearls with any harsh chemical,
and only use a commercial jewelry cleaner specifically made
for cultured pearls. The safest cleaning method is using a
mild soap and lukewarm water solution, wiping with a soft
cloth. Always lay strands flat to dry to prevent the cord
from stretching. To ensure years of enjoyment, be sure to
have your pearl strands inspected regularly and restring as
needed.
Peridot - does not react well to heat. Avoid sudden temperature
changes. Peridot should never be cleaned with ultrasonic or
steam cleaning machines. It may be cleaned with most commercial
jewelry cleaning solutions or soap, lukewarm water and a soft
brush.
Ruby - is both hard and durable and can be cleaned using an
ultrasonic cleaning machine, any commercial jewelry cleaner
or mild soap, lukewarm water and a soft brush. Rubies with
a glass like residue in surface-reaching fractures should
NOT be cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner or steam machine.
Sapphire - is hard and durable and can be cleaned using an
ultrasonic cleaning machine, any commercial jewelry cleaner
or mild soap, lukewarm water and a soft brush.
Spinel - is hard and durable and can be cleaned using an ultrasonic
cleaning machine, any commercial jewelry cleaner or mild soap,
lukewarm water and a soft brush.
Tanzanite - is a relatively hard gemstone, but it is not equally
durable. Tanzanite may chip or break if exposed to moderate
blows or sudden changes in temperature. It should never be
cleaned with an ultrasonic or steam cleaning machine. It may
be cleaned with most commercial jewelry cleaners, or mild
soap, lukewarm water and a soft brush.
Topaz - is a hard gemstone that is very resistant to scratching,
but because of its internal structure it may break or split
if subjected to a hard blow or sudden changes in temperature.
It should never be cleaned with an ultrasonic or steam cleaning
machine. It may be cleaned with most commercial jewelry cleaners,
or mild soap, lukewarm water and a soft brush.
Tourmaline - is a hard gemstone that is resistant to both
scratching and breaking, but it should be protected from sharp
blows or sudden changes in temperature. Because of the natural
internal characteristics found in some tourmalines, especially
pinks and reads, ultrasonic cleaning machines should not be
used. It may be cleaned with most commercial jewelry cleaners,
or mild soap, lukewarm water and a soft brush.
Gemstone care tips provided by Jewelers of America
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